[RIDGELINE] Ben Pobjoy's Tips for Long Walks

Ridgeline subscribers! Hello! As I wrote last week, my new pop-up newsletter/walk — The Return to Pachinko Road — begins on May 14. Subscribe here if you feel so inclined (almost 3,000 people have already signed up — thank you!): And, as I also mentioned last week, Ben Pobjoy — w … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 days ago

[RODEN] New Pop-up Walk, Reading Digitally in 2024

Roden Readers — Here we are! May! Good god! Let’s dig right in. First, I’m running a new pop-up newsletter connected with my upcoming Tōkaidō walk. The newsletter is called The Return to Pachinko Road and you can sign up here. It starts on May 14, ends on June 1st-ish. I’ll be wa … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 11 days ago

[RIDGELINE] Pachinko Road, One More Time

Ridgeline subscribers! I’m going back, baby. BACK TO PACHINKO ROAD. From May 14 to May 30, 2024, I’ll walk approximately 600 kilometers from Kyoto To Tokyo, inshallah, along the old Tōkaidō Road, which isn’t really “old” at all anymore, and in many places is, indeed, loaded down … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 16 days ago

[RIDGELINE] Smelting and Steel in Photographs

Ridgeline subscribers! Last week I had a new piece for the New York Times go live: “A Japanese Village Wants Tourists to Come for Heat, Soot and Steel”. I took tons of photographs (also, this marks the first time for me getting some film-shot photos into the Times, if you’re keep … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 28 days ago

[RODEN] Smelting in the New York Times

Roden Readers — It may not feel like it, and I may not be sticking to the schedule, but in theory this is a monthly newsletter. It is I, Craig Mod, writing from a near constant state of frazzle and delight that has been this year. The cherry blossoms have come and gone for most o … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 month ago

[RIDGELINE] Contniuous Uniterrupted Solo Walks

Ridgeline subscribers! For the first time in literally a month, I had a morning to myself and a day with nothing on the schedule — no movement, no interviews, no meetings, no calls, no todos. I spent it with the internet off, no phone nearby, reading. This is the way. If you’ve e … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 month ago

[RIDGELINE] Kitchen Arts and Kissa by Kissa

Ridgeline subscribers! Hello from the village of Yasuhara on the western edge of Kōchi, a village filled with Kengo Kuma structures. I’m writing from the shoes-off Yasuhara Community Library, which is beautiful, as you can see above. Here’s my little workstation: 1 Working at the … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 month ago

[RIDGELINE] Yamaguchi Once More

Ridgeline subscribers! Hello, Craig Mod here with a dispatch on my trip to Yamaguchi city last week. The blossoms were about to bloom! The cherries! Everyone told me this. It was supposed to be today! they’d say, sad the trees weren’t cooperating. But I didn’t mind. I’m not too f … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 month ago

[RIDGELINE] Back to the Peninsula

Ridgeline subscribers! Hello, it is still I, Craig Mod, still writer of this newsletter. I went walking last week. It had been fifteen months since I had visited the Kii Peninsula, and this was the first trip since publishing the fine art edition of Things Become Other Things (wh … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 2 months ago

[RODEN] The Beautiful Meat Grinder

Hello Roden Subscribers — Running a membership program feels like sticking your head in a meat grinder and hoping a rainbow comes out. It’s a slurry of vulnerability and hubris and insanity, and it’s also a bit — let’s be honest — embarrassing. Please, you say, support my work? I … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 2 months ago

[RIDGELINE] To the Next Five Years of Memberships

Ridgeline subscribers! Hello, it is I, Craig Mod, writer of this newsletter. And runner of one membership program called SPECIAL PROJECTS, of which many of you are members (thank you!), and which makes Ridgeline and many other things possible, and which is now — somewhat unbeliev … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 2 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking 2023

Ridgeline subscribers! Did I walk in 2023? Oh, I walked. Maybe not as much as some other years, but walk I did and here is where and what I did when it comes to walking. I started the year off with a TOKIO TŌKYŌ TOKYO walk, part two, and walked in the winter through the streets o … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 3 months ago

[ESSAYS] Five Years of Memberships

2023 was amazing, bewildering, inspiring, gnomic, exhausting, bacterial, and mostly, fun. I mean — by the end of the year I was but a swollen forearm fighting for my life (OK, maybe not quite that bad), but wow … WOW. 2023: Easily the most monumental and generative year of my lif … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 3 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Parents in Japan in Photographs

Ridgeline subscribers! My parents have visited Japan twice. Once in 2018, some 18 years after I first moved to Japan. And then again this past December. That first trip, despite the pleas of my mom to go to Kyoto (which she still to this day calls, “Ki-yōti”), I took them on a ki … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 4 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Yamaguchi City — My 'New York Times' Pick This Year

Ridgeline subscribers! Happy new year!! I meant to send a 2023 Year in Walking post, but then my arm got infected, and the year came crashing down, and now I figured I should address this new New York Times ranking ASAP. So here we are. Walking review coming soon, but we’ll have … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 4 months ago

[RODEN] Goodnight 2023, What a Year, I love Antibiotics

Thriving Roden Subscribers — I love antibiotics. I love them so much. I am in awe of how long I went without articulating this love. Each and every day we should open our front doors and yell into the crisp morning air: Thank you, antibiotics! Thank you dicloxacillin and ampicill … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 4 months ago

[RIDGELINE] The Walk and Talk: Everything We Know

Kevin Kelly and I began talking while walking together some twelve years ago, near his home in Pacifica. Eventually, we branched out, and for these past six years have been running more “formalized” walk-and-talks across five countries with some 40+ people. We’ve walked-and-talke … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 5 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking the Heck out of Thailand

Ridgeliners! Thank you all for the rapturous response to the TBOT announcement. We’ve finally shipped almost all of the orders, caught up with the rush, and new orders are now being tackled next business day. You can (probably?) still sneak a TBOT in before Christmas. Onward to t … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 5 months ago

[RODEN] Things Become Other Things Become Books

Faithful Roden Subscribers — Things Become Other Things, fine art edition, launched a couple days ago, and — I swear — I was about to send a letter here, to the kindly folks of Roden, but sales were happening so quickly, flying at my head like JK Simmons chairs (except infused wi … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 5 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Things Become Other Things — Available Now!

Walkers, have I got a walking book for you: Things Become Other Things. It’s a book about walking thousands of kilometers of the Kii Peninsula. About walking those old Kumano Kodō paths — but not the ones you probably know. It’s about talking with a thousand fishermen and farmers … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 5 months ago

[RODEN] Tokyo Walk, TBOT Cover, Aloneness

Roden Readers — My third big Tokyo walk kicks off tomorrow today in a couple hours — TOKIO TŌKYŌ TOKYO³, a six day, 150km walk from edge to edge of Tōkyō-to. More info on it here, and you can sign up directly here. I’m Craig Mod, and it looks like I might be walking through some … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 6 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking TOKIO TŌKYŌ TOKYO Part Three

Hello Ridgeliners! It’s been 10 months since my last big Tokyo walk, so once again, here we go — I’m gunna walk the heck out of Tokyo. And once again, I’m running a pop-up newsletter for the walk: TOKIO TŌKYŌ TOKYO³! You can sign up here: (Note: If you subscribed to my previous T … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 6 months ago

[RODEN] New Tokyo Walk, Fried Bologna, Louis Glück, Werner Herzog, Influenza

Roden Readers — By far the most interesting moment of my three days of non-stop 39℃ fever happened around hour twenty-six. My grandmother — deceased some twelve years — appeared to me in the doorway to my studio and said, Craigy, get dressed and go next door. It was two in the mo … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 7 months ago

[RIDGELINE] TBOT Press Check, Walking Matsumoto

Hello Ridgeliners! The mid-sized city of Matsumoto has always felt sunkissed to me. Bright. Never gloomy, though I’m sure it gets gloomy enough on certain days (maybe even on most days). For me, its rivers have always sparkled and burbled and the evening light has always cast the … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 7 months ago

[RIDGELINE] The Last Summer Walk

Hello Ridgeliners! I walked wonky alleys flanked by old wooden temples and stone walls that looked like they had been there for a few hundred years and, reader, I was sweating. Sweating so much I don’t know if you could call it sweat anymore — it was just a profusion of wetness a … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 7 months ago

[RODEN] Decisions, In-Person Joy, Mt. Fuji, Also — Skin Cancer

Roden Readers — Hello from the tail end of about twelve-million decisions. I’ve never made more decisions-per-hour that I have this past month. Good lord, if I haven’t yet ascended to some lambent seat of decision making sainthood, then I never will. I’m Craig Mod, and I’ve been … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 7 months ago

[RIDGELINE] The Magical Japanese Art of Luggage Forwarding

Hello Ridgeliners! I don’t aspire to write “Japan travel tip” notes here, but this is such an easy trick, and one seemingly rarely known, that I can’t help it. As Japan has seen a resurgence of tourism, I’ve noticed more and more slightly-confused looking people hauling their col … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 8 months ago

[RIDGELINE] My Next Book: Things Become Other Things

Hello Ridgeliners! I’m Craig Mod, and as you may have seen, I recently announced my next book: Things Become Other Things (TBOT). It’s a walking book, a book about a big walk around the Kii Peninsula, and picks up where Kissa by Kissa leaves off. (Reductively: It really is like a … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 8 months ago

[RODEN] The Random House Book Deal

Roden Readers — Big news: I sold my next book to Random House. (!) Here is the industry-hallowed Publisher’s Marketplace announcement screenshot: It’s an honor and great privilege to be working with editor Molly Turpin on this book. (And to have Random House’s Andy Ward (Publishe … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Movie Credit Boredom in Japan

Ridgeliners — When I started Ridgeline some many many years ago (4.5-ish), the plan was to cap each post at about 300 words. I was cribbing from Sam Anderson’s “New Sentences” column that had a similar rule. Obviously, I didn’t stick to that rule. But the reason for that cap was … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 months ago

[RODEN] Sandwiches, Oppenheimer, Shooting Film

Rodenians — Hello from the other side of England-to-Tokyo jetlag, from a week of nights where I’ve slept only three hours and nights where I’ve slept a terrifying fifteen hours (sublime, but I also felt as egg-hatched as Richardson for the rest of the day). It’s been a busy few m … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 months ago

[RIDGELINE] British Sandwiches and Walking 300km of Wainright's Coast to Coast

Ridgeliners — I ate a cheese sandwich. I ate a cheese sandwich with Branston Pickle. I got crisps. I put the crisps in the sandwich. I ate a cheddar cheese sandwich with Branston Pickle and salt and vinegar crisps on brown bread while looking out over Lakeland. I got more daring … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Jazz Kissa Tour — Thank You!

Ridgeliners — Hello! It’s been a while. I’m still Craig Mod and this is still Ridgeline. I finished the big jazz kissa tour and then immediately set off on a 13 day / 14 night 300km+ walk across northern England. A kind of “vacation” — ha ha! It was great. More on that later. But … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 9 months ago

[RODEN] A Jazz Tour, Literary Deaths, Sylvia Plath

Rodenians — I am swaddled in The Great Busyness. The great swirl and swoop of book production and editing and launching new projects and fielding late night phones calls with folks in New York and folks in Amsterdam and folks in London. I am feeling both very full and very used u … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 11 months ago

[RIDGELINE] A Northern Japan Jazz Kissa Tour

Ridgeliners — I’m launching a new pop-up newsletter called BASIE!BOP!JAMAICA! It begins this Friday, June 16. For sixteen days I’ll be exploring a few of the greatest (and maybe not so greatest?!) jazz kissas1 of Tōhoku and Hokkaido. Like my previous pop-ups, each day I’ll send o … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 11 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking Northern California

Ridgeliners — I walked the dusty hills of Edgewood Park, up to Vista Point, looking back out over the flats of the south bay, looking out towards Atherton and Palo Alto and the bent-knee San Matea-Hayward Bridge and Bair Island, thinking back to a life I once lived in these parts … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 11 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Things to Eat and Drink and Places to Stay along the Kiso-Ji [Part 3]

Ridgeliners — The Kiso-ji is pretty easy to get to from Tokyo. You just need to hop a Shiojiri-bound Azusa express from Shinjuku, and from there you’re at the start. But! If you’re going to walk the Kiso-ji, I recommend sitting on that train another stop, and heading to Matsumoto … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 11 months ago

[RIDGELINE] Drumming is a Kind of Walking

Ridgeliners — About six months ago I began drumming again. I had taken a fourteen year hiatus. I wrote up my return in Roden, and posted the essay as a standalone thing here: ”Drumming”. Six months later, and I’ve sat behind the kit almost every single day I’ve been home. Usually … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RODEN] Media

Rodenianites — I watched 2001 for the first time. Yes, it turns out I had never sat through the whole thing. It was one of those movies like The Godfather, where I had hallucinated seeing it via a million media references (“Simpsons” gags, parodies), but had never actually put my … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] Death and Not Death Along the Kiso-ji [Part 2]

Ridgeliners — Many have died since the last time I walked the Kiso-ji. I mean, this is obvious and folks are dying everywhere all the time, but I’m talking about people running places along the road and sometimes the places themselves. Until last month, I hadn’t been to the Kiso … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking the Kiso-ji [Part 1]

Ridgeliners — Note: Hello all! It’s been a very busy (lots of movement, too much movement) month this past month. More regular Ridgelines incoming. The Kiso-ji road runs from the edge of Shiojiri in Nagano, in a northeast-southwest direction through a thin valley shunted between … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RODEN] New York City

Rodenianites — Hello from the other side of nine-and-a-half hours of deep, strange sleep. The sleep of total discombobulation. For that’s me: The discombobulated Craig Mod, writer of this, Roden. I was in NYC last week to run a gauntlet of meetings and to attend a little reunion … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking Around Kan Yasuda's Sculptures

Ridgeliners — I made a little trip to Hokkaido the other week. It had two purposes: To hang out with a good friend (which is what 90% of all my non-walk-related travel is centered around; increasingly this is all I’m interested in doing — intentionally maximizing time with people … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] A Walking Man

Ridgeliners — M E M B E R S H I P I N T E R L U D E Hello subscribers — thanks to the support of SPCIAL PROJECTS members, I’ve been able to write Ridgeline (and many other things!) for over four years now. As usual, I’ve written up a huge “look back” at last year, Year Four, of t … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RODEN] Meemmberrrshhiippss!

Gentle, patient, attractive, vibrant, gifted, peerless Roden Subscribers — Year five! We’re in it. Meaning I’ve now run my membership program — SPECIAL PROJECTS — for four years. As is “tradition,” I’ve just published my extensive look-back at Year Four (2022): Everything I’ve Le … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] Walking Zelda

Ridgeliners — I spent the last half of 2021 and the first half of 2022 walking Hyrule. The new Hyrule, of course, the one in Breath of the Wild, in 3D, full of snowy mountain passes and velvet sunsets and stunning coastal views. Walking this place was in part somnambulistic — I w … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RODEN] The Morioka Experience

Morioka. Holy smokes. This last month has been unexpected, exciting, sometimes exhausting, but mostly — uplifting and inspiring. I have a new New York Times piece out about what’s been going on, but let me give you all — you Roden readers, me Craig Mod — a more detailed backgroun … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago

[RIDGELINE] The People of Morioka

Ridgeliners — I have a new New York Times piece out. I also just published a big behind the scenes writeup over in Roden. Head over there for the breakdown on the events of the last month. Here, on Ridgeline, I want to feature some of the wonderful people I met walking around Mor … | Continue reading


@craigmod.com | 1 year ago